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Timeless Tradition: History Under the Hammer at Istanbul’s ‘Sahafs’.

Istanbul: If you walk downhill through the narrow side streets branching off Istanbul's famous Istiklal Avenue, you will find yourself in Tophane, a neighborhood along the city's iconic strait. Inside one of its old arcades is a quaint secondhand bookstore, where, every weekend, auctions take place for volumes both foreign and Turkish, along with an eclectic mix of other items - posters, CDs, vinyl records, and more. Book auctions have been common practice for decades at Istanbul's secondhand shops, known in Turkish as 'sahafs.' But actual congregations like these have become harder to find in recent years, since many establishments have carried bidding online since the Covid outbreak. According to Anadolu Agency, the owner of this sahaf, Burak Bilgic, emphasizes the importance of bringing people together to keep the traditional auctions, or 'mezats,' alive. 'This is a social space,' Bilgic explains. 'People don't come here to shop,' so much as to relax, talk about books, and connect with each other in a wel coming atmosphere. Sahafs have a rich history, dating back to the early years of the Ottoman Empire, with Istanbul serving as the capital for over 450 years. In the 15th century, the city's Grand Bazaar became a central hub for commerce, including book trading. The Beyazit area, a short walk away, has long been a focal point for Turkish literary culture, where early bookshops established by scholars and scribes offered handwritten manuscripts and religious texts at a time when printed books were scarce. By the 17th century, sahafs had become lively centers for auctions where rare books, historical documents, and ephemera were exchanged. Today, the Sahaflar Carsisi, a bustling hub of secondhand books and rare finds adjacent to Beyazit Mosque, serves as a key spot where Trkiye's literary history and cultural heritage are preserved. However, Bilgic's secondhand shop is in Tophane, a booming art district that has undergone rapid transformation over the last decade, blending contemporary growth with its traditio nal roots. Before auction day, Bilgic and his team scrutinize the books brought by sellers to determine what will be auctioned. 'Books are selected a day in advance. We check their condition, making sure they're readable and ready for sale. On the day of the auction, we send out messages to inform buyers of what's available,' he says. 'The supplier sets the initial price, but depending on the book's condition, I can adjust it.' The auctions attract a diverse clientele, primarily consisting of retired white-collar workers, including former government officials, teachers, doctors, bankers, and lawyers. These loyal customers are well-acquainted with each other's interests and expertise, making the bidding process smooth and predictable. The auction begins with books published in the 1990s and 2000s, with prices starting at a modest 10 Turkish liras. Among the bidders is Halis Canakci, a teacher with a keen interest in geography and literature. This week, he successfully bid on a rare geography textbook from t he 1960s and an Ottoman-era Quran, which he plans to restore. Cemal Bahadir, a retired banker and regular attendee of the book auctions, focuses on collecting musical memorabilia. Despite his keen interest, his bid for a vintage Sony radio was unsuccessful, as it went to another buyer for 80 Turkish liras. Another dedicated regular, Mehmet Guntekin, conductor of the Turkish Presidential Classical Music Choir, has spent over 20 years attending auctions to collect books and ephemera related to Turkish music history. As the auction at Bilgic's sahaf comes to a close, those with winning bids gather their items and bid their goodbyes, ready to return next week for more valuable pieces of history.